One of the fastest-growing tourist destinations in Europe, Copenhagen enjoys long summer days of sunshine but fewer of the scorching heat waves that are sweltering other parts of the continent. That translates into more time to comfortably explore the Danish capital’s many treasures.
Visitors today will find an easy-going, ever-evolving city designed for enjoyment, with trampolines built into sidewalks, swimming piers dotting the cool harbor, plus fantastic food and bicycle lanes everywhere you go.
This guide will help plan a first visit — as well as future trips — to Copenhagen, a forward-thinking Scandinavian city with classic amusements, world-class museums, inspiring designs and cutting-edge architecture. The culinary scene, a top draw for many, has moved beyond Noma, the hugely influential (but much-criticized) New Nordic restaurant whose recent reopening announcement was a mere blip on the radar that’s now tracking so many other exciting restaurants, cafes, bakeries and bars worth a bike ride across this vibrant city.
What to Do
Essentials
On an inaugural trip to Copenhagen, put these must-see sights and experiences at the top of your list.
Nyhavn
Lined with brightly painted 17th- and 18th-century rowhouses, the picturesque Nyhavn canal is Copenhagen’s top photo op. The banks of the historic canal were once home to Hans Christian Andersen, the Danish author of fairytales including Thumbelina and the Little Mermaid. Today the area is a bustling hub of cafes, pubs and souvenir shops.
Tivoli Gardens
Since opening in 1843, the Tivoli Gardens have enchanted visitors of all ages. In the heart of the city center, this 20-acre amusement park inspired Walt Disney when he was designing Disneyland. The beloved cultural institution features open-air concerts, children’s theater performances, nighttime light shows and fun rides including a thrilling 200-foot freefall tower, a classic Ferris wheel and a wooden roller coaster built in 1914.
Tip: Entry tickets are cheaper when the park is less busy: Monday through Thursday, or Friday before 6 p.m.
Hop on a bike
Whatever the weather, Danes’ preferred mode of transportation is a bicycle. More than half of the locals cycle every day in this bike-friendly city with hundreds of miles of dedicated bike lanes that make it a safe, sustainable and speedy way to get around. One particularly scenic route is the Harbor Circle, an eight-mile bike-and-pedestrian loop passing houseboats, swimming piers and architectural landmarks.
Smorrebrod
The open-faced sandwich on dense rye bread, piled high with toppings, is the quintessential Danish lunch. Dozens of classic varieties are on the menu at Restaurant Schonnemann, a venerated destination since 1877. Restaurant Palaegade serves fine-dining variations with pickled herring, fried plaice, Baltic shrimp and beef tartare. And Aamanns 1921 stands out for its creative, seasonal offerings.
Freetown Christiania
A must-see for anyone seeking a nuanced understanding of the city, this semi-autonomous district was established in the 1970s by anarchists and hippies and is today home to a commune of about 900 residents. The area was long known for an open drug trade along Pusher Street, but it was cleaned up recently and is now a welcoming bohemian enclave filled with music and art, colorful graffiti murals and homemade architecture.
Tip: When visiting, respect the rules: no running, no drugs (buying or using), and ask permission before taking photos of residents.
A canal boat ride
Admire the city from the water and glide past the gleaming Opera House, the stately Christiansborg and Amalienborg palaces, the hypermodern “Black Diamond” library and the diminutive Little Mermaid statue. Stromma offers a popular one-hour guided tour, Hey Captain runs small group tours, or rent an electric boat from GoBoat to explore on your own.
Tip: When passing under the Hojbro bridge, look for the underwater bronze sculptures by the Danish artist Suste Bonnén.
Top Attractions
Dive deeper into Copenhagen and its pristine harbor (literally!) with these historic landmarks, market halls, local experiences and flavors.
Harbor swimming
In stark contrast to most major cities, Copenhagen is surrounded by water so clean you can (and should!) dive in for a swim. Hop into the harbor from a swimming pier or splash in a floating harbor pool, like Islands Brygge, Kalvebod Bolge or Sandkaj, all protected from boat traffic.
Louisiana Museum
About 25 miles up the coast, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is a must-visit detour for art lovers, with galleries dedicated to Alberto Giacometti and Asger Jorn, outstanding temporary exhibitions and a magnificent sculpture park overlooking the Oresund strait.
Tip: It takes about 40 minutes by train from Copenhagen’s central station to Humlebaek, which is a short walk from the museum.
Rosenborg Castle and Kongens Have
Built as a pleasure palace for King Christian IV in the early 1600s, this Nordic Renaissance castle with copper-green spires houses centuries of Danish royal history including the crown jewels and regalia. The surrounding gardens, with blooming roses and tree-lined paths, is a leafy idyll.
The Palaces
Amalienborg Palace, home of the Danish royal family, is actually four separate palaces around an octagonal square where crowds gather at noon for the changing of the guards. At the seat of the Danish government, Christiansborg Palace, admire beautiful tapestries and great views from the tower.
Stroget
Brave the crowds along this wide pedestrian thoroughfare lined with international fast-fashion stores as well as notable Scandinavian stalwarts. Royal Copenhagen is a classic stop for its signature blue and white porcelain, Georg Jensen for silver vases and tableware and the flagship Lego store for exclusive pieces from the Danish toy company.
The Little Mermaid and Kastellet
A tribute to Denmark’s literary heritage, “Den Lille Havfrue” is a four-foot-tall bronze statue perched on a rock, gazing toward the shore. Visit early to beat the crushing tour-group crowds and then stroll around Kastellet, the nearby pentagonal fortress with grassy ramparts and a working windmill.
Designmuseum Danmark
This recently renovated museum in an 18th-century rococo building offers an in-depth retrospective of Danish Modernism, the mid-20th-century movement that changed the world with influential designs from Kaare Klint, Arne Jacobsen, Borge Mogensen, Kay Bojesen and many more.
Rundetaarn
The Round Tower is precisely that: a 17th-century landmark in the heart of the city center with a spiral stone ramp winding through its core. The recently renovated rooftop observatory, where views stretch to Sweden across the Oresund strait, will reopen fully to the public this fall.
New-wave bakeries
An explosion of new artisanal bakeries has catapulted the city to the top of the culinary world when it comes to pastry, bread and sweets. Among the favorites are espresso-glazed croissants at Andersen & Maillard, sugar-crusted cardamom buns at Koebenhavns Bageri and hazelnut-cream-filled Berliners at Bageriet Brod.
Refshaleoen
A slew of creative entrepreneurs transformed a defunct shipyard on the northeastern edge of the city into a top summertime destination. Start with the immersive James Turrell art installation at Copenhagen Contemporary, sample wild-fermented ales at Mikkeller Baghaven and enjoy street food from around the world at the Reffen market.
Torvehallerne
The two market halls house 60 vendors with more flower sellers, produce stands and food carts outside. Whether shopping for a picnic, lunch or edible souvenirs, you’ll find high-quality local offerings ranging from light-roast coffee and small-batch cheeses to Danish porridge and licorice pralines.
Assistens Cemetery
In the heart of the Norrebro neighborhood, this leafy cemetery is the final resting place of the philosopher Soren Kierkegaard and the fairytale author Hans Christian Andersen. It also doubles as a verdant local park, where schoolchildren picnic beneath the poplar trees and sunbathers stretch out on the grass.
Shopping
This city is a shopper’s paradise with its inspirational design destinations, quirky boutiques, high-end thrift stores and one-of-a-kind shops for everyone and every budget.
- Credits: The New York Times
- Author: Ingrid K. Williams
- Visuals: Ulf Svane
